Saturday, September 10, 2011

ARGENTINA (8/11-8/12/11): Iguazu Falls


Thursday, August 11: Mendoza -> Iguazu Falls (Argentina)

When we first booked our trip, several travel agents told us we should really focus our time on 1 or 2 countries – not hop around so much. We’re happy we stuck to our guns – finding a travel agent and itinerary that met our needs. Our 24 hour journey to Iguazu falls gave us a glimpse of why people were concerned. For example, the flights around South America are really not convenient. We left Mendoza around 6:30 am (we’ve rarely slept in!), had to fly through Buenos Aires with a 2 hour layover, then continue another 1.5 hrs to Iguazu Falls. The entire morning was in airports and planes – just to get across the country. The good news is that we still had a solid day to explore.   
Iguazu Falls National Park contains 14 miles of waterfalls that plummet up to 229 feet. We’re told that Iguazu is about 6x the size of Niagra. Karl said he feels Niagra is taller, but Iguazu is wider. The falls are in a rainforest, but more mountainous than the flat Amazon we’d seen the week before. Due to limited time, we didn’t have a chance to explore the jungle outside of the Falls area or participate in any of the adventure activities in the area (zip lining, jet boat under the falls, etc) – but there was plenty to see for the next 5 hours.
The Falls are called one of seven “natural wonders of the world.” We hiked the 3 main paths– to devil’s throat (see Lila’s facebook pictures & videos – that was the first one), the upper circuit (which winds along the top of the canyon), and the lower circuit (which was very splashy!) near the bottom of the falls. All the trails were wheelchair accessible. In fact, they’ve done an amazing job of building metal paths above the ground to really protect the wildlife and fauna. We saw feisty raccoons, beautiful blue and yellow jays, tons of butterflies, and even chased down a toucan hiding in a tree (we heard it about 5 minutes before we could find him). The fauna was very interesting, too. For example, there was cacti growing in the middle of the rainforest and grasses that survived with 1000s of gallons of water hitting them all day long! It had rained days before in Brazil, so the water was pounding (6-8x more volume than normal). It was truly an incredible sight. Lila had never seen anything like this before….waterfalls everywhere, water rushing so much so fast, and rainbows radiating from the falls.
After 5 hours of hiking around, we settled into the Sheraton, the only hotel located right in the national park. As we watched the sunset with Devil’s Throat in the distance, we saw many toucans flying by and jays and swallows trying to peck away at food on the balcony (I think one of the blue jays gave Lila a 10 minute stare down over a packet of sugar). Across the way, we could see Brazil. From there, you’re supposed to have a wonderful panoramic view of the Argentinean falls. But that required a visa which we never had time to get. It was such a wonderful way to pass the last evening. In fact, we couldn’t have picked a better way to end our Argentina adventure. We’ve loved the nature and hiking aspects of our trip. After the cold, city life of Buenos Aires and sitting around in Mendoza wine/food tasting, it was great to be outdoors in a tropical setting.  

Friday, August 12: Iguazu Falls -> Buenos Aires  -> Back to the US

At 8 am exactly, when the Park opened, we were first in through the Sheraton’s backyard! We hiked the upper circuit again. For an hour, we didn’t see anyone. It was great to have the jungle and falls to ourselves. At this point of the trip, we’ve been accustomed to listening for – and spotting – animals. It’s not the magical way the Amazonians guides do it, but Karl’s learned to be quite the “native.” One of the highlights of the morning was Karl spotting 2 parrots perched above a tree. It was very cool just to watch them hang out. After the upper circuit, we had time to hike the lower circuit. There’s a lookout pier on the lower trail that is just feet away from the bottom of the falls. Yesterday, only a few people dared to get close, and not us – too cold, too wet. But this morning, it seemed like a shame to come this distance and not feel the water. So we decided to go to the end. Just a few seconds and we were DRENCHED (imaging standing next to a fire hydrant wide open and you might being to get the same sensation). We made it back to the hotel in time to shower, before our 10:45 am hotel departure.
Then came the dreaded phone call from the travel agent…
Our flight to Buenos Aires was cancelled. It’s worth noting that up until now, we’ve had no issues with the previous 14 flights of our trip. The travel agent said they tried to rebook us, but were told we need to call the airline directly. We’ll skip the long details. In the end, we were able to get onto the next flight, scheduled to leave 2 hours later. In the meantime, we hung out at the Sheraton enjoying the views.
Fast forward to the airport. Our flight departure was delayed another 1 hour. This killed our afternoon plans in BA. We were originally supposed to land in BA, hang out in the city for 3 hours, then head to the international airport (1 hr away from the in-city domestic airport).  Quick math and you’ll note that these delays ate away at our “hanging out in Buenos Aires” time. Fortunately, when you’ve have guides and travel agents taking care of you, they include buffer time. Good thing, because luggage took an hour to come off the conveyor belt at the small domestic airport. Unbelievable! At this point, we’re stressed because Friday evening traffic (6pm) is unpredictable here, and we needed to get across town to the international airport.
Fortunately, traffic gods were on our side today. We made it to the airport a little less than 2 hours before our departure, only to discover we were upgraded to first class on the return (big smiles). Of course, the drama still wasn’t over. We’ve never seen an airport in the Americas as inefficient as Buenos Aires. The lines were massive, and stopped frequently to let the next phase clear out. For example, they stopped security scanning because immigration (the next phase) was moving too slow. We ended up waiting in these lines for almost 1.5 hours. Needless to say, all passengers were super anxious – people starting to fret over making their flights. In the end, it all worked out. Flights were slightly delayed to accommodate the madness, and even the pilot made jokes about the mess. But all of these delays killed our shopping time at the airport, which was supposed to replace our shopping time in Buenos Aires. We settled into our first class seats (enjoyed the welcome aboard drink) and finally took off around 9:30pm to Miami. Three weeks, 4 countries, and amazing memories!  

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