Saturday, September 10, 2011

ARGENTINA & URUGUAY (8/6-8/10) : Buenos Aires, Colonia, Mendoza


It’s amazing that 2 weeks have passed so quickly, yet that we have experienced so much in  Ecuador and Peru. We’ve been looking forward to ending our 3 week adventure in Argentina given all the hype we hear from friends that Buenos Aires is their favorite Latin American city. And so the final phase began…

Saturday, August 6: Lima (Peru) ->Buenos Aires (Argentina)

Our international flight from Lima departed at 8:45, arriving in Buenos Aires at 3:15pm. The highlight of the journey was the LAN flight with movies on the back of each seat. It’s been a while since we just watched TV, so the short flight was a treat! During the flight, Karl pulled out his little travel emergency bag to show off how he’s built an amazing collection of travel gear over the past year. Of course, he proceeded to leave it on the plane as we rushed off to experience BA. Fortunately we were able to have someone retrieve it once we were on the the other side of immigration.
By the time we got to our very cool boutique hotel (PuroBaires) it was around 5pm. The hotel managed to find a wash & fold laundry place for us. It’s uncommon for people to have washers/dryers, and instead they depend on a service. We walked about 15minutes to drop our things off, then proceeded with a 2 hour walk until everything was ready. It gave us a chance to explore the hip Palermo SOHO neighborhood we were staying in. There was a wonderful square with artisans displaying their goods while people strolled by. We noticed how European and young everyone looked relative to the last 2 countries.  At 5:30pm, the city was full of activity. Everyone was in cafes with drinks and sweets. By 7pm, they all disappeared and BA felt like a ghost town. However by 10pm, the restaurants were full again with people having dinner before their night on the town.
We couldn’t manage waiting until 10pm for dinner, so we had the hotel book us a “super early” dinner slot at 8:30. The restaurant, Lo de Jesus, is one of many restaurants known for their beef. As you may know, Argentina is famous for grilled steaks and Malbec red wine. The meat was unbelievably tender and delicious (and when you say medium rare, the steak was still moo’ing with just a sear on the outside).. As we left dinner at 10pm, the restaurant had just gotten full. We still can’t understand how Argentines eat so late!
One other note – we are SO thankful we bought sweaters in Cusco! It’s in the 50s here, and while we packed 1 sweater, it’s not been enough.

Sunday, August 7: Buenos Aires

We got a great overview of Buenos Aires on Sunday. The city of 4M (which swells to 10M if you include suburbs) starts a little late since it ends so late. We began around 10am. In summary, we finished the day surprised by eclectic architecture and cultures of each neighborhoods. 
We began in the Main Square, Plaza de Mayo. There’s a neo-classical Cathedral, the colonial Cabildo, the old town hall and the pink colored Presidential Palace (think “Evita” where she sung from the balcony). From there we went to San Telmo neighborhood. It’s the oldest part of the city, bohemian atmosphere, narrow sidewalks, cobbled-stone streets, flat roof colonial houses and windows with iron railings. On Sundays, there’s a flea market and an artist’s market. It was great to browse the streets and square. We continued to La Boca quarter, where Italian immigrants settled in the 20th century. We saw the famed Boca Juniors soccer stadium, multi-colored tin houses, and the very cool (but touristy) Caminito Street. There, artists exhibit their work outdoors, tango dancers dance in the cafes – all set against brightly, multi-colored buildings. Apparently it was the way immigrants inexpensively dressed up the area. We also learned about the history of tango, which originated in Argentina by the immigrants – all a mix of various cultures.  It was interesting to go from the poorer neighborhood of Boca to the beautiful wide streets of Peurto Madero and the marina. The surroundings include tall glass buildings, a stylish bridge, and renovated old brick warehouses that now house restaurants/shops. All around the city – there were so many plazas. We ended the tour in Riccoleta, an expensive neighborhood that houses one of the weirdest sites we’ve ever seen: a cemetery. This cemetery includes monuments that were designed by architects. It’s really incredible – think of a little city of mausoleums. Creepy, yet beautiful.
We returned to our hotel for a short break before walking around Palermo more. We walked to the leather outlets, but decided that the selection in China is much better. Nothing like having things custom made! We also walked to another square. During weekdays, this square is surrounded by bars and discos. On Sundays, it turns into another artists fair. Inside the discos, small boutiques and sellers set up shop. It’s odd to walk into a disco during the day and see clothes for sale and the bars covered up.
For dinner, again at 8:30pm, we got into a hot restaurant – La Cabrera. The atmosphere was wonderful. The quality of steak was good. Best, it was just a few blocks from our hotel. During our dinner we came up with the following list….
-          Most surprising about BA (good): 1.  such distinct differences between the neighborhoods and 2. the grave site.
-          Most disappointing (bad): 1. poop on the ground (tons of dogs being walked, all which seem to poop freely!) and 2. all the graffiti (which seems to a common part of the political expression).
-          Our favorite spot: San Telmo.

Monday, August 8: Day trip to Colonia (Uruguay)

Across the river from Buenos Aires is the city of Colonia, in the country of Uruguay. Lila had been to Uruguay years ago, but only to the capital city of Montevideo. We were deliberate in adding Uruguay to our agenda so Karl could get 1 country count closer to Lila. J We took the ferry at 8:45am, returning around 6pm. It’s around an hour journey across the Rio de la Plata river. The river looks more like a sea from the coast, and ends up at the Atlantic Ocean.
Colonia dates back to the 17th century. Its small, Old City is a World Heritage site. We were pleasantly surprised to have a tour guide for a few hours, then roamed around on our own. It was wonderful because we really felt that we learned a lot about Uruguay – the history, culture, and lifestyle. Our tour guide was very knowledgeable. We opted to start at the not-officially-opened Visitors Center – a great stop to get an overview via a short video of Uruguayan images (which our guide explained) and a historical timeline. We did a quick tour around town, learning about the river, and seeing an old resort the Spanish opened, including a Bull ring and sports center. Once bull killing was deemed inappropriate, the ring closed as did  the rest of the old resort (only two years after it was opened). The old city was quite charming. There were 2 highlights. The first was the architecture. The Portuguese (who ruled Brazil) built in Colonia as a way to spy on the Spanish in Argentina. The Spanish didn’t like that. In fact, during just 100 years, Colonia passed between the Spanish and Portuguese 10 times!  Right next to a short, Portuguese house with roof tiles, you’d see the flat roof Spanish home. One cobble stoned street would peak in the middle and slope on the sides - the way Spanish architected drainage. The next cobble stone street would be dipped in the middle with the sides higher to create a water drainage in the middle (Portuguese design). It was very fascinating! The other highlight was this old Portuguese house we found refuge from the cold wind off the river.  Inside the stone building with low roof, it felt like we had stepped back in time. We enjoyed an assortment of cheese and meats, including the famed Colonia cheese with a bottle of Tannat (the country’s signature red wine).
We returned to Buenos Aires via ferry, which even had a duty free shop inside! It was an interesting day, got Karl to 58 countries, and put a few more stamps in both of our passports. That evening, we relaxed at the hotel, still full from our Uruguayan lunch and then the cheese/wine snack. We organized our luggage and prepped for the 5am departure on Tuesday to Mendoza.

Tuesday, August 9: Buenos Aires -> Mendoza (Argentina)

We arrived in Mendoza, a 2hr flight from Buenos Aires (440miles NW), around 9:30am. Our itinerary in Mendoza got a bit screwed up, but we did some last minute coordination with the tour guide and arranged for a city tour in the morning. We really enjoy learning the history, and getting an orientation of a city when we arrive. Especially with a new city every couple of days, it’s really helped us piece together the history and culture of the continent. The city is dotted with huge central plazas. We saw at least 5 – not bad for a city of 130k citizens. Most of the history of the city was wiped out in an earthquake in the mid 1800s. One of the most amazing sites was the city park – Parque General San Martin – with 11 miles of paths, 300 species of imported fauna, an amazing rowing club, and beautiful statues. It was very grand – especially for a smaller town. We also drove into the mountains to see a beautiful monument to San Martin, one of the lead generals who fought the Spanish for independence of Argentina, Peru, & Bolivia. Apparently when San Martin returned from Spain, he chose to be based in Mendoza to plot out the revolution against the Spanish. We also stopped at the central market, where we got some delicious dried fruit (Lila thinks the peaches were the best, but in fact Karl’s dried, white figs ruled!).
We started our visit to the wineries in Lujan de Cuyo, or the first zone. It’s home of the Malbecs and the main area of Argentina’s wine industry. The first stop was for lunch - at Clos de Chacras winery. It was an outstanding gourmet pairing of many food and wine courses. One thing about Mendoza – they like their wine with good food! Afterwards, we visited Alta Vista - a well known winery known for the mix of old and new, Malbecs and Torrentes. From there we stopped by Carmello Patti, a winemaker who produces wine under his own label. It was a very small operation and fun to hang out with the charming older man. Afterwards, we walked around the small town of Chacras, where our hotel was based. We’ve decided that we like the charm of small hotels, but like to be based in a larger city/town where we can walk around. In Chacras, you can walk the entire downtown in 15 minutes. The hotel, Lourdes de Chacras, was a charming boutique hotel made of old stones.
That evening we had dinner at Nadia OF. The chef, Nadia, is married to a winemaker O. Fournier. She started the restaurant to do  wine pairings with his wine. Again, the food/pairings were wonderful.

Wednesday, August 10: Mendoza (Argentina)

Today’s wine visit was in the Uco Valley, a high-altitude wine region pushing against the Andes. It was about 1 hr from the town of Chacras, about 90min from downtown Mendoza. It’s considered the new frontier in Argentine wine. Our first stop was Salentein. No words can describe the amazing architecture and structure of the winery, set against the beautiful backdrop of the snow capped Andes. As you approach the winery, it really doesn’t look like anything special. But inside and underground is amazing. Frommers described it as “temple like cave” – and that’s what it felt like! Maybe because it’s winter, or because it’s Mendoza, but we were surprised how quiet the winery was. In the US, such a beautiful winery would be over packed with visitors. Afterwards, we visited Azul, an uber boutique winery that produces only 40,000 bottles each year. We got to some wine from the 2011 March harvest straight from the tank. We also tried their premium wine straight from the barrel. The winemaker was very cool to talk to. The morning’s visits were really excellent and enjoyable visits!
For lunch, we ate at the Altus winery, a small very rural winery that hosts the top quality restaurant Bistro La Tupina in a converted vineyard workers’ cottage. The pairing was again amazing – and never ending! At least 3 times we thought we were done. We had small courses of appetizers (chorizo, chardonnay cheese, blood sausage (disgusting thought, but good in the belly), an amazing egg dish (presented in an egg shell)). Then we were given  delicious sheppards pie, empanadas, a lentil/meat stew, and finally the most tender short ribs. They also prepared wheat-free versions for Karl.
We napped on the hour car ride back to the hotel, arriving around 5pm. Clearly we were too stuffed for dinner that evening so we opted for a game of pool with a cheese snack plate at the hotel. We’ve now had more meat and cheese since landing in Argentina than we’ve had the entire year!
A few things we’ve taken away from Mendoza. Its common to drink young wines, meaning inexpensive (e.g. US$5-$10) that are not aged in oak to show off the flavors of the grapes. They aren’t fans of barrel aged – we had many wines including a cab that spent no time in a barrel – only a concrete or stainless steel tank. As a result, many of the wines don’t have a long finishes. There’s a big shift from producing quantity (150 years of producing the 4th largest volume of wine) to quality (less than 10 years of experience). Most of the wines are not “drink alone” wines, but rather should be paired with food. The specialization is Malbec, but they are experimenting with a variety of whites and reds. The migrant workers are predominantly from Bolivia, who earn ~ $15/day. There’s a recent effort to improve the working conditions. Water is highly regulated by the Dept of Irrigation.  Overall, we learned a ton about the differences with California’s wine region and preferences. It was very fascinating and enjoyable! 

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